Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Florence

The past several days in Florence were really nice.  We arrived by train from Venice Thursday afternoon, and thanks to google maps we made it to our hostel without getting terribly lost.  The hostel was really basic with only one shower and a closet sized kitchen, but the beds were clean and our fellow bunk mates were quiet.  After coming from very decent hotels in Germany and Venice, our six bed dorm room was a startling change.  Anyways, we got aquainted with our small living space, found ourselves a map, and walked around for a while.  My first impression of Florence was that it was overrun with massive amounts of tourists everywhere, and I really missed our quiet visit to Venice.  Feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the people we kept our walk short that evening and went out to find dinner.  The receptionist at the hostel sent us to a very touristy restaurant packed with Americans, so that was kind of a let down.  He made it sound like an authentic dining experience... Oh well.  It turned out that the food and wine were really quite good, so we left in better spirits.  Following dinner we made it back to the hostel for a quiet night.

Friday we were up and out early for a action packed walking tour of the city. Breakfast was at a small cafe we had passed the night before.  The beautiful almond glazed scones sitting in the window display had caught our attention, and we just had to give them a try.  The scones, along with piping hot Italian coffee were the perfect combination to get our epic day of walking into full swing. 

We started our stroll around the more touristy area near the center of town and made our way to the Piazza della Signoria.  This medieval styled plaza was a great place to stop for a while.  The small street cafes were full of mid-morning coffee drinkers.  The buildings are all so ancient and grandiose.  The Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio surround the plaza and house many important pieces of art.  Everywhere you look there are large columns, watch towers, huge buildings and impressive sculptures.  From here we went towards the Arno River and the famous 16th century Ponte Vecchio Bridge. The bridge is always crowded due to the nice views of the river and the many jewelry stores that line its length on both sides. Aaron took a few pictures and we continued on.

We crossed the river and continued our walk beyond the Palazzo Pitti.  After several stops into beautiful old cathedrals, we found ourselves in a non touristy area of Florence.  The south side of the bridge offers a very different experience for tourists. This might have been our favorite part of the day. The quiet narrow streets wound up the hillsides taking us to a beautiful residential area.   The old villas came in a variety of colors, pink, bright orange, and canary yellow.  The well groomed yards housed a mixture of interesting plant species and plenty of olive trees.  Many residences were gated, but we peeked through cracks in the walls to catch sights of the bustling city below and distant mountains.   Tucked among the homes we found a convent and a very small church that was built in the 13th century.   It felt like going back in time as we quietly strolled along this amazing and quaint italian neighborhood.

On our way down we found a cafe to stop and eat lunch.  We sat beside a fireplace and enjoyed a lovely meal.  I had fried polenta topped with fontina cheese and proscuitto, and Aaron had penne pasta with salmon.  Thankfully wine is cheaper than water here in Italy, so we split a half liter of the house red. After a quick Americano to complete our fine dining experience, we were back outside continuing our long walk.  

Before crossing the river back towards our neighborhood, we climbed lots of stairs that led us to the Piazzale Michelangelo.  The plaza is littered with tacky souvenir shops and yet another fake David.  Poor Michelangelo.  Anyways, the panoramic view of the city from this plaza was well worth our time.  The clouds dispersed, the sun made an appearance, and Aaron got some great shots.  

We started the long walk back to the hostel to take a short break and give our feet a needed rest.  Our return trip took us along the Arno River and back into the busier parts of Florence.  Of course we stumbled upon a market, so we had to stop and check out the many interesting foods for sale.  We are both market junkies.  It doesn't matter what is being sold, from trinkets to foul smelling fish, we can be found.  As Aaron says, the more disturbing the better.  Not to get off track, the meats, cheeses and breads had us constantly oohing and aahing, and the fresh produce didn't look so bad either.  We decided to buy a few dinner items here, and so we excitedly left with fresh gnocchi, pesto and some veggies.  

Finally back at the hostel we took a brief hiatus and put our feet up until late afternoon when we went back out.  Earlier in the day we saw fliers at one of the cathedrals about a concert featuring pieces by Handel.  We crossed the river once again and found the church hosting the concert.   Mass was just finishing so we snuck in the back and waited for it to end.  The concert was very small and informal with a soprano and two organists, and there were only a handful of people in attendance.  Really there was only a nun, a few older folks, and us.  The cathedral was dark and gothic style adorned with large columns and frescos throughout.    Heat was lacking, so we stay bundled in our warmest winter wear.  The musicians performed above from the balcony, and the music was absolutely beautiful.  Handel's 'Rejoice' was amazing as the soprano sang impeccably and with appropriate emotion.  This was a perfect end to a perfect day.

Back at the hostel we prepared dinner and just had a quiet night.  The pesto gnocchi was excellent.  I believe we put in about 13 miles throughout the day per our pedometer.  Not too bad...

I won't go into as much detail about the next two days as they were a bit lower key.  Saturday morning we toured The Uffuzi and saw impressive Renaissance art.  Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael...  Standing in front of The Birth of Venice was extremely surreal. We also had gelato several more times.  The pistachio is my absolute favorite so far.  

New Year's Eve was especially nice. I managed to stay out way past my bedtime.  We rang in 2012 in one of the central plazas listening to the Florence philharmonic symphony, watching fireworks, and sipping cheap champagne.  There was a competition going on between the music and pranksters shooting fireworks.  The conductor got very flustered as the surrounding booms drowned out the music.  It was pretty fun to watch him get so angry.  He most certainly could have used some of our cheap bubbles to calm down.

We slept in on New Year's Day, and in the afternoon we made a short hour trip to visit The Leaning Tower of Pisa.  Pisa is a nice quiet town that is easy to navigate.  After walking a short distance from the train station the tower came into view, and sure enough it was leaning at a pretty decent angle.    After Aaron took about 300 pictures we found a pizza place for lunch.   Once again we enjoyed an excellent meal.  In the early evening we caught the train back to Florence and just relaxed and played cards in the hostel.  

Yesterday we packed our bags and made our way to Lucca, which is where we are currently.  Florence was a place that we have always wanted to visit, and it certainly met our expectations! Let the good times continue throughout Italy!

Friday, December 30, 2011

Finally a Few Pictures

We have been slow to get pictures up so far.  Here are a few from my camera.  Will have to wait to get some up from Aaron's collection due to difficulties downloading.  We just got back in from walking around Florence all day.  We're getting ready to go out for gelato and a concert featuring music by Handel. 

Aaron Lets No Time Go to Waste

Aaron's Dinner 

Post-Meal Blues 

Christmas Market in Munich 

Evening in Venice 

View from our Vaporetto in Venice 

Roadside Cat in Florence 

View from Michelangelo Plazza in Florence



Thursday, December 29, 2011

Christmas in Germany

So far our trip has been absolutely great.   We just arrived into Florence after spending a couple of nights in Venice.  It is hard to believe that we have been on the road for over a week already.

Aaron and I had a really wonderful Christmas weekend with our friend Verena and her family.  Aaron met Verena years ago when he studied abroad in Finland, and they have managed to keep in contact since then.  We recently visited her in Chicago and she extended an invitation to spend the holiday with her family in Rosenheim, which is about a thirty minute train ride from Munich.  We met Verena at the central train station mid-morning on Christmas Eve.  The ride to Rosenheim took us through quaint Bavarian towns, and we could see glimpses of the snow covered Alps through the clouds.  After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we went to meet her parents at their apartment.  Gisela and Jurgen gave us a warm welcome as we gathered for coffee and biscuits before going back out for the afternoon.

Our first stop was to a local restaurant in Rosenheim to eat the traditional late morning meal of white sausages and hefeweizen.  This is a very common meal in Bavaria.  According to Verena, these sausages are made out of the 'extra parts' of the pig, and they are supposed to be eaten before the noon bells ring so not to spoil.  They are served in a large pot of hot water, and you eat one at a time so that they stay warm. 
Eating instructions per Verena:
Remove one sausage from pot
Cut lengthwise but not all the way through the meat
Peel the skin without being too messy (we were horribly unsuccessful at this and used our hands)
Slice and dip in sweet mustard sauce
Wash down with Hefeweizen
Repeat

This fine dining experience left us full and content as we boarded the train for Salzburg to enjoy some more holiday festivities.  During the ride Verena and I took turns jotting down Christmas songs to be sung later in the evening around the tree.  Of course we practiced our singing as we rode along, which was really nice.  Aaron finally got a little embarressed during 'O Holy Night,' so he pretended not to know us for the remainder of the trip.  We arrived to Salzburg around three or so and caught a bus that took us to the center of town.  There were plenty of people out wandering, and a few frantic shoppers taking advantage of the final hours of the Christmas markets.  The city was lit with beautiful white lights along the narrow cobblestone streets.  After strolling through the main plaza we made our way up a steep hill to a quiet overlook of the city.  There were no other people, just the three of us and the view below.  Verena and I sang Christmas carols while we took in the lovely sight.  The best part of being in this location was hearing the many church bells throughout Salzburg chime simultaneously at five thirty. 

From the hilltop we quickly made our way back towards the center to an old graveyard.  This is where the locals gather on Christmas Eve every year to listen to a brass band play carols on the rising hill.  While the music sounds above, families place small Christmas trees and light candles on the graves of loved ones.  All day had been very overcast, but while the music played the clouds parted, and we got a peak of the clear winter sky.  It was a beautiful and peaceful experience, and I especially loved hearing Silent Night and humming along with the instruments and the crowd.  Salzburg on Christmas Eve was a very surreal night for us, and we were so thankful that Verena shared it with us. 

Following the music it started to rain heavily, so we caught a taxi to the train station and made our way back to Rosenheim.  Gisela and Jurgen had prepared a lovely meal, so after singing a few more carols around the tree we sat down to a traditional dinner of homeade sausages and potato salad.  The food was amazing and the conversation was lively.  Aaron and I both felt right at home with Verena and her parents.  Gisela and Jurgen are both passionate and intelligent people, so we covered a variety of topics well into the night while drinking fine local beer.

Christmas day started out with a traditional German breakfast-a variety of meats, cheese, bread, fruit, cereal and lots of strong coffee.  We enjoyed a very low key morning lounging around the house and talking before Jurgen and Verena took us on a tour of the town.  Rosenheim is a small comfortable city that is really quite scenic.  We passed by churches, walked along the Inn River, and looked around the city center where there are old buildings and cobblestone streets.  On our way home we stopped at a local brewery that is one of Jurgen's favorites, and we warmed up while enjoying a pint and liver dumpling soup.  Delicious.  We also made a quick visit to a chapel originally built in the 1400s.  It was very small and dark except for the outside lights shining into the windows and a few lit candles.  Once again we broke out the Christmas carols and sang into the still quietness of the church.  It was beautiful.

Back at home Gisela had outdone herself once again with an amazing dinner of roasted duck, potatoes, brussel sprouts, chestnuts and beets.  We had no difficulty clearing our plates.  For dessert we enjoyed a delicious vanilla mousse with strawberry preserves.  The remainder of the evening was spent lounging, looking at old photos from Verena's younger years, and talking.  We made it back to our hotel around one or so, and slept for a few hours before getting up, enjoying a quick breakfast with the family, and making our way back to the train station for one final night in Munich.  We couldn't have asked for a better Christmas.  Verena and her parents really made us feel like part of the family.  Wonderful memories to last for many years to come...        

Monday, December 19, 2011

A Happy Holiday!!

The holiday season has been very good thus far.  After wrapping up our travel assignments in late November we managed to quickly pack up our apartment and make it safely to Colorado.  We spent a fun week visiting Aaron's family and reconnecting with a couple of friends.  Longmont was very cold, so we spent most of our time indoors trying to stay warm.  We had a fine getaway up to Estes Park and got to spend time with Aaron's sister and our sweet nieces.  Throughout the week I especially loved sleeping on the leather sofa in front of the fire while Aaron and his folks watched the entire Lord of the Rings Trilogy (twelve hour extended version).  Perfect slumber...

This past week we have enjoyed catching up with my folks in South Carolina.  The temperature has been very mild so Aaron and Dad have gotten in some fishing time.  We all piled in the car and had a great day trip up to Asheville for a tour of The Biltmore House.  This weekend my brother's family came down for a holiday celebration.  It was lovely to spend quality time together and give my nephew lots of love.  We also managed to clear out the attic of our many belongings from pre-travel nurse days.  After several trips to Goodwill and about twenty boxes shipped, the attic is looking very empty. 

Tomorrow morning we will be leaving for our three month trip.  Our first stop is Germany where we plan to enjoy Munich and the surrounding area.  We're looking very forward to spending Christmas with our friend Verena and her family.  From Germany our travels will take us through Italy for several weeks.  I am very excited about pasta, gelato, wine and art museums!  Then it will be on to Nepal...

So tonight we can relax as we're pretty much ready for our next great adventure.  Aaron has had his bag packed for over a week now.  He is always very methodical in how he prepares for a trip.  Over the past several days he has made multiple lists, and he has tirelessly checked each and every item off.  He has carefully inspected his pack nightly making sure he forgets nothing.  The zippers are zipped, and the locks are locked.  The bag is ready.  I, on the other hand stuffed my pack full of all kinds of necessary items just this afternoon.  I tried to follow the 'two pair of everything rule,' but I decided to live a little and pack a third shirt just for kicks.  So my bag is almost ready, and I will try to do at least one double check tonight.  This is usually how we do things, and it seems to work out okay most of the time! 

Next post will be from Germany!  Good times shall be had!!  Merry Christmas to all!



 

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Chicago

Our weekend spent visiting Verena in Chicago was wonderful.  It is always nice to get away for a few days and experience new things.  The weekend was full of conversation, great food, local beer and crisp fall weather.  We left last Thursday in the early afternoon and got in that evening.  It was easy to hop on the train and make our way to the loop to meet up with Verena.  Our first stop was to have a drink in the John Hancock Building and enjoy an amazing view of the city and lake.  We then made our way back to Verena's place for a quiet dinner and early night.

Friday we had a great breakfast at a local diner and then spent time wandering the city.  Verena is currently working at DePaul, so we enjoyed touring the campus with her.  Afterwards we made a trip to the botanical conservatory where we were in awe of the amazing orchid room.  The room was full of  colorful Lady's Slippers and stunning bromeliads.  The late afternoon was spent walking the windy shores of Lake Michigan and chatting about our recent travels.  Verena always has good stories to tell.  We started our evening out very high class on the top floor of Trump Tower sipping cocktails.  It is hard to believe the owner of such a fancy establishment has such dreadful hair.  Aaron felt bad about not being dressed up enough, so I kept having to remind him of the combover.  An unkempt ponytail, scruffy beard, torn jeans, and old flannel shirt combined are more presentable than Donald's hair.  I think this made Aaron feel much better.  Anyhow, dinner was at an authentic Mexican restaurant that served excellent food.  Our final stop of the evening was a lovely jazz concert at The Green Mill.

Saturday morning got to a later start as we all needed some extra rest.  Verena's friend Mike picked us up around eleven and took us to Chinatown for some delicious dim sum.  This dim sum experience was very similar to the one we had in Hong Kong several years ago.  We left the restaurant satisfied and ready to venture towards Oak Park to visit the Frank Lloyd Wright home.  Oak Park is really a beautiful little suburb with amazing old homes.  It is especially a nice place to be this time of year with the colorful leaves and cool weather.  Before our late afternoon tour we stopped for a frozen treat at the historic Petersen's Ice Cream Shop, which has been around since 1919.  My vanilla bean ice cream was the perfect pick-me-up! 

Our tour through the FLW home was really quite good.  Aaron and I visited Talieson during our contract in Wisconsin, and we really enjoyed the experience.  Our guide in Oak Park was mediocre because she really struggled to answer questions throughout the tour.  This was not terribly impressive, but just being able to walk through the house was very exciting.  In fact, I was so thrilled that I might have gotten a bit tearful when we entered the front door.  And Aaron was so embarrassed that he might have acted like he didn't know me.  After our tour we walked back to the train station admiring the other FLW homes along the way.  They really do stand out from the more traditional Victorian style houses that make up a large part of the neighborhood.

Back in the city we had a delicious dinner and then hit up a brewery to try some local beer.  It was a fine evening.  Aaron and Verena enjoyed a lively political discussion while I stayed silent and looked on in amusement.  Luckily there was no shouting involved and their friendship survived even though it is quite clear they have very different opinions.  So we enjoyed a couple of beers, and we even managed to keep the conversation away from politics the remainder of the night.  Good times were had!   

It was a fine weekend spent with Verena.  She is just a lovely person, and we always have so much fun together.  We're looking forward to seeing her in Germany next month and celebrating Christmas with her family!






Beautiful Oak Park

Frank Lloyd Wright House

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Weekend Getaway


Aaron and I are getting ready for a quick three day trip to Chicago.  We will be spending the weekend with our friend Verena.  It has been well over a year since our last visit, so it will be very nice to spend time together and catch up.  I am also looking forward to fall weather, eating good food, and sampling a variety of local beer.  When we return home I only have nine shifts left before we head out of town for three months.  Where has the time gone??  It is a little bittersweet to be leaving so soon even though we will be returning in the spring.  We're both very excited about seeing our families in early December and heading to Germany for Christmas!  Until then we have lots of packing to do!!


Zuri suspects we're leaving her this morning, so this is her very sad and pitiful pout.  As always, she will have a wonderful time with the dog sitter Katy and her sweet pug Otto.  

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

The Past Week

It is amazing that October has come and gone, and November is here.  We have only a month left before we leave for three months.  I am really looking forward to some time off from work and our upcoming travels.  We have figured out our housing situation for March, which is a relief.  It seems most sensible to stay in the lovely motor lodge, but I think we will be changing apartments within the complex to have a balcony.  Our apartment really isn't much to look at from the exterior, but the inside is nice and spacious.  Most importantly though, I feel safe in this location.

We have had an enjoyable week with plenty of activity.  Aaron's friend Scott came to visit from Arizona.  It was great to have him around and enjoy his company.  He helped the husband brew yet another batch of beer, which just thrilled me.  No, I really do like that Aaron enjoys this pastime so much, I just don't know what we are going to do with all of this beer!  We also managed to go out and enjoy the Halloween festivities in SF. 

I have had the past two days off and have immensely enjoyed my free time.  Yesterday I took the train over to Oakland to meet up with a friend for a day of hiking, eating and beer tasting.  Melissa is one of my favorite people, and I look forward to continuing our fun times when we return in the spring.  I met her at work last summer, and we have quite a lot in common.  She loves to eat and travel, so there is always something to talk about over a good meal.  Anyways, we enjoyed a beautiful and strenuous hike up a very steep hill that provided great views of the bay.  On our way back to town we stopped at a great little gourmet sandwich shop and split the ahi tuna and pulled pork sandwiches.  Both were fantastic...  The day ended downtown at a joint called Beer Revolution, which has approximately fifty beers on tap at any given time.  The smoked pumpkin beer was amazing!  Poor Aaron, he had to work.

Today has been uneventful.  I took a friend to the airport, exercised, and then read more of my book on China.  My friend was leaving SF today for Shanghai, so I was very jealous when dropping her off.  Tonight for dinner I made a veggie and cheese quinoa dish.  It turned out really well and was much more healthy than the sausage apple pie I made last week.  Oh well, I suppose it is okay to have comfort food sometimes...  I pretty much work the next week and then we leave for Chicago to visit our friend Verena.  Good times shall be had!